Where can I find replacement parts?

You may order them directly from us on this website or by phone at (800)750-2723. You may also get parts through your local dealer. US Stove does not recommend purchasing after-market parts. They have not been tested with our units, and we cannot guarantee they will function properly and may cause damage to your stove. The use of after-market parts will also void any remaining warranty you have through US Stove.


Why is my furnace labeled “Coal Only”?

Although your furnace may have originally been designed to burn wood AND coal, due to increasing EPA restrictions some furnaces are now only approved for burning coal. Coal fires tend to burn hotter which, in turn, produces fewer emissions. Burning wood is not a safety issue for these units but produces a higher level of particulate emissions that are released through the chimney and into the atmosphere.


How can I prevent grate burn out and warping of cast iron parts?

All grates are constructed of cast iron which can “burn out” (oxidize rapidly) or warp so severely the grate becomes immobile. There are two ways to prevent such problems:


  • Never over fire your stove by leaving the feed or ash door open during operation.
  • Failure to empty the ash pan, allowing ashes/cinders to accumulate to the point of contact with the grate can quickly warp or burn out the grate.

  • To function properly and endure for years as intended, grates rely on the flow of cooling air to prevent warpage or burn out.


    What kind of coal is best to burn?

    Your circulator is capable of burning both Bituminous and Anthracite coal. Anthracite is perhaps the best coal fuel because of its long and even burn time, high heat output, and cleanliness. However, keep in mind that it is a much more difficult fuel to use. Anthracite coal is not so widely available, is usually much more expensive, and requires more care and patience. Most sizes of Bituminous coal will work in your furnace. You will have more maintenance with Bituminous than with Anthracite coal as more soot will collect on heating surfaces and in pipes, but it is easier to find and to burn.


    How to burn Anthracite coal:

    When burning Anthracite, use coal the size of an egg or broken egg with sizes between 2-5/16" thru 4-3/8". Before starting the fire, open the stove pipe damper, turn the automatic thermostat to high, open the ash pit and feed doors, place newspaper and finely split kindling on the grate, light the paper, and then add larger hard wood. Now, add a thin layer of coal to the wood fire, being careful not to disturb it too much or cut off the draft. Then, add a second heavier layer after the coal is ignited and burning well. If necessary, add a third layer to bring the coal up to the top of the front liner. Before adding further fuel, be sure you leave a red spot of glowing coals in the center of the firebox. A deep charge will give a more even heat and a longer fire. When the fire is well established and the room is becoming warm, partially close the dampers. Adjust the stove pipe damper to reduce the draft on the fire. Only when the coal is burned down to half its original depth is it time to add fresh coal. When doing so, open your stove pipe damper and turn your thermostat damper to high. Then, open the feed door, and with a small rake, hoe or hooked poker pull the glowing coals to the front of the firebox. Next, add a fresh charge to the back, being careful not to seal off the top. Close the feed door but leave the spin damper (or thermostat) open for a few minutes until the volatile gases have burned off. For extended operation, such as overnight, you will need to bank the fire. To do so: heap coal up along the sides and back of the firebox so that the fire gradually burns it over a long period of time. Then close your damper and automatic control to the point where the house does not become too cold.


    How to burn Bituminous Coal:

    With Bituminous coal, use large nut coal to small egg coal (1-3/4" diameter to 4" diameter). All coal fires should be started with wood, which will allow the fire to get hot enough to ignite the coal. Use soft woods as kindling, and add hard wood to increase the heat prior to addition of the coal. Once your kindling and wood fire has produced a bed of well-established embers, start adding coal in layers allowing each to ignite before adding more. Once the fire is WELL-ESTABLISHED, add coal to the center of the firebox, forming the cone. Burning in this fashion allows heat to drive off the volatile gases, and turbulence created increases the burn efficiency. Allow enough secondary air to enter the firebox and keep your stove pipe damper open so that volatiles are properly burned. Before refueling, take the time to break up the cone a little with a poker. The objective is to remove a small amount of the ashes without disturbing the fire. For overnight operation, shake the fire and add coal, retaining your center cone. Then adjust your thermostat to the desired heat level.


    Why do I have a hard time sustaining a fire in my furnace unless the door is open?

    Your chimney is not producing a strong enough draft to sustain the fire. Here are some things that can affect the draft force in your chimney:


    • The chimney is not installed correctly.
    • There are too many elbows.
    • There’s too much horizontal length in the piping.
    • The chimney stack is too short.
    • The moisture content of the wood is too high.
    • The chimney is dirty.
    • There is not enough fresh air available in the home for combustion.
    • The outside pipe sections are not insulated properly (double or triple wall required).
    • The piping is not sealed and pulling in cool air to the chimney.
    • The diameter of the chimney is too large.

    Can I vent my furnace directly into my clay lined chimney?

    Clay lined chimneys are very difficult to get warm and create a draft. When these chimneys are used there is usually a drafting problem associated with them because of how newer wood stoves are designed. To avoid this we recommend that you line the chimney with the same size pipe that comes from the stove. The round shape of the stove pipe also creates a better draft than a square shaped chimney.


    Can I install a damper/draft regulator in my flue?

    Yes, you may install a manual damper or an automatic draft regulator, such as the US Stove part #DR6 (draft regulator).


    What do I do if my fire is burning too high and I’m going through a lot of wood?

    First you want to make sure you’re not burning the stove with either door open or with the intake controls all the way open. If not, then your chimney is most likely over-drafting. This can be easily resolved with the installation of a draft regulator in the flue. (US Stove part #DR6)


    What is CREOSOTE?

    Creosote is a tar like substance that can build up in a chimney. When wood or coal is burned slowly, it produces tar and other organic vapors which combine with expelled moisture to form creosote. The creosote vapors condense in the relatively cool chimney flue of a slow-burning fire. As a result, creosote residue accumulates on the flue lining. If ignited, this creosote creates an extremely hot fire which may ignite surrounding materials resulting in a building fire. The chimney connector and chimney should be inspected at least twice a month during the heating season to determine if a creosote buildup has occurred.


    Tips for preventing creosote:

    • Burn only seasoned wood that has dried for at least one year.
    • Burn hardwood rather than soft wood.
    • Do not attempt to burn (or mix in) green or wet wood.
    • Do not attempt to extend the burn time by using wet wood. Not only does burning wet wood rapidly build up creosote, but it reduces the heat output by up to 25 percent.
    • Burn the stove with the air inlet control wide open for 10-25 minutes every time fresh wood is loaded into the stove.
    • Be sure that you have a sufficient draft.

    How do I maintain the blower fans/motors?

    Most of our furnace blowers have a closed bearing, self-lubricating motor. Because of this there is no need to oil the motors. However, it is important to incorporate the use of a filter box. This will fit over the blower and tie into the air return duct system. Not only will it filter the air circulating in the home, but it will also keep the blowers from pulling in dust and debris that can damage the motor components.


    How should I set the feed door draft?

    It depends on the situation: how strong the draft is, wood or coal, what kind of wood, etc. It is different for everyone, so it is best to experiment with it to figure out what works best. For example: if you have a taller chimney stack (25ft or more) with a stronger draft, you may need to use the lower settings. For more advice you may call our technical support team at (800)750-2723.


    When I open the feed door smoke comes out. Why?

    It is possible that you may have a blockage in the chimney, but it is far more likely that you are experiencing draft issues. The draft is the force which pulls exhaust up and out the chimney. The draft is also responsible for forcing combustion air to be pulled in through the stove’s intake to fuel the fire. Refer to “Why do I have a hard time sustaining a fire in my furnace unless the door is open?” for tips on maintaining your draft.


    Am I required to install an Air Return in my duct system?

    An air return is absolutely necessary for your furnace to function properly. It is usually required unless otherwise stating in your owner’s manual. Without one your furnace may not heat your home properly, and you will likely have issues with the way your furnace operates.
    Not only does the return air provision allow a furnace more efficiency, but it also builds a safety margin by preventing a negative pressure (vacuum) in your furnace room. Your furnace is pulling up to 1,100 cubic feet of air per minute from the furnace room and sending it to heat other parts of the home. If that room is shut off from the rest of the house, a partial vacuum will result. This could pull smoke from the chimney back into the furnace, preventing the chimney from staying hot, causing creosote to form, and promoting smoke spillage.


    Why are my blowers cutting on and off?

    • Your thermodisc (if equipped) may be malfunctioning.
    • The blower ON/OFF settings on your Honeywell Limit Control (if equipped) could be too close together.
    • You may need to install an Air Return duct system because the heat it not be distributed from the stove properly.
    • There may be a bad blower.
    • For further troubleshooting contact our tech support team at (800)750-2723.

    Can I control my furnace using a remote thermostat?

    Yes…but you will first need to install a Draft Induction Kit. The thermostat will be included in this kit. Keep in mind that a thermostat will not cut the distribution blower(s) on and off immediately like it would a HVAC system.
    ***Do not use a digital thermostat. You must use a standard, non-digital, low-millivolt thermostat. The remote thermostat should be placed at least 10ft from the stove. Use 16-18 gauge wire if the thermostat is no more than 15ft from the stove. If the thermostat is any further away use a larger gauge wire.


    Is it necessary to hook up my furnace to a duct system?

    Yes. For your furnace to be efficient and work properly, it needs to be connected to the appropriate sized duct work and have an adequate cold air return system. Some furnaces are available to use as “stand alone” units (little or no duct work), but do not expect them to operate as efficiently as a furnace attached to a duct system.


    What is my warranty?

    All replacement parts are covered for 1 year from the date of purchase.
    The integrity of the firebox itself is covered for 3 years from the purchase date.
    Some dealers may sell extended warranties. You will need to contact your dealer for assistance if you have purchased one and are outside of the US Stove coverage time frame.